Montepio, population 208, is the "premier"
beach resort of Los Tuxtlas. Located at the
confluence of two small rivers, on the Gulf
of Mexico, this beach pueblo is heaven for
those seeking godforsaken beaches ala
Puerto Escondido in the 1980's.
Unless of course, if they find the place
during Semana Santa, then it is difficult to
see the sand between the SUV's
occupying the strand. The rest of the year
the beach reverts to being godforsaken.
beach resort of Los Tuxtlas. Located at the
confluence of two small rivers, on the Gulf
of Mexico, this beach pueblo is heaven for
those seeking godforsaken beaches ala
Puerto Escondido in the 1980's.
Unless of course, if they find the place
during Semana Santa, then it is difficult to
see the sand between the SUV's
occupying the strand. The rest of the year
the beach reverts to being godforsaken.
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| Montepio / Dos de Abril San Andrés Tuxtla |
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Access:
Montepio´s access has improved lately. The road from
Catemaco (24 miles, about 1 hour drive) is now paved except
for the stretch in front of the Estacíon Biologica, which is
now a biologist designed nightmare of unfitted rocks. The
paved road from Veracruz-El Tropico, north of Santiago
Tuxtla is also complete. Access from Catememo is via pirata
communal taxis available at the northeast Catemaco station
(28 pesos). Buses from the carretera also run from
Catemaco but pass through Santiago Tuxtla first, and
probably drop you off before you get to Montepio.
History:
Although various sources claim that the Montepio valley has
pre-hispanic artifacts, I have yet to see any proof. The valley
was occupied by a French family in the early 1850's who
imported Mayan laborers to establish a sugarcane plantation,
a remnant of which is the dilapidated structure on the Gulf
shore, built in 1857. After the French were deported in 1869,
as a consequence of the French - Mexican war, the valley
began regenerating, until in the early 1900's a US rubber
baron attempted to establish another plantation in the area,
but mysteriously left soon after, allegedly after having found
the treasure of the pirate Lorencillo, known to have haunted
these gulf waters.
After the Mexican revolution, most of Montepio was donated
to retired Mexican military, who never occupied the zone.
Land squabbles involving descendants of these soldiers
have inhibited the village from realizing its potential as a very
attractive gulf coast resort. Dozens of unfinished and
abandoned buildings litter the community and no outside
communication except via satellite is available.
What to do in Montepio:
Tourism in Montepio is highly seasonal. Most of the year the
area is abandoned and a beach comber paradise. During
prime Mexican vacation periods, though, the beach
resembles Coney Island.
1. Leave and cross the Rio Maquina to Dos de Abril.
2. Rent a horse and leave to visit waterfalls further west.
3. Enjoy fresh Gulf seafood amid the persistent hagglers.
4. Climb Cerro del Borrego and marvel at the glorious vistas.
5. Rent a boat and see some caves northeast of the pueblo.
6. Rent a boat to see the pirate lair at Arroyo de Lisa.
7. Ride a banana. Major thrill!
8. Surf 3 foot waves, and wait for a norte wind.
9. Bring a kayak and a chainsaw and run Rio Maquina.
Recommendations:
Restaurant La Casita in Dos de Abril,
Hotel Posada San Jose, Montepio,
any boat rental with life preservers and a canopy,
the horse named "Chucho".
Montepio´s access has improved lately. The road from
Catemaco (24 miles, about 1 hour drive) is now paved except
for the stretch in front of the Estacíon Biologica, which is
now a biologist designed nightmare of unfitted rocks. The
paved road from Veracruz-El Tropico, north of Santiago
Tuxtla is also complete. Access from Catememo is via pirata
communal taxis available at the northeast Catemaco station
(28 pesos). Buses from the carretera also run from
Catemaco but pass through Santiago Tuxtla first, and
probably drop you off before you get to Montepio.
History:
Although various sources claim that the Montepio valley has
pre-hispanic artifacts, I have yet to see any proof. The valley
was occupied by a French family in the early 1850's who
imported Mayan laborers to establish a sugarcane plantation,
a remnant of which is the dilapidated structure on the Gulf
shore, built in 1857. After the French were deported in 1869,
as a consequence of the French - Mexican war, the valley
began regenerating, until in the early 1900's a US rubber
baron attempted to establish another plantation in the area,
but mysteriously left soon after, allegedly after having found
the treasure of the pirate Lorencillo, known to have haunted
these gulf waters.
After the Mexican revolution, most of Montepio was donated
to retired Mexican military, who never occupied the zone.
Land squabbles involving descendants of these soldiers
have inhibited the village from realizing its potential as a very
attractive gulf coast resort. Dozens of unfinished and
abandoned buildings litter the community and no outside
communication except via satellite is available.
What to do in Montepio:
Tourism in Montepio is highly seasonal. Most of the year the
area is abandoned and a beach comber paradise. During
prime Mexican vacation periods, though, the beach
resembles Coney Island.
1. Leave and cross the Rio Maquina to Dos de Abril.
2. Rent a horse and leave to visit waterfalls further west.
3. Enjoy fresh Gulf seafood amid the persistent hagglers.
4. Climb Cerro del Borrego and marvel at the glorious vistas.
5. Rent a boat and see some caves northeast of the pueblo.
6. Rent a boat to see the pirate lair at Arroyo de Lisa.
7. Ride a banana. Major thrill!
8. Surf 3 foot waves, and wait for a norte wind.
9. Bring a kayak and a chainsaw and run Rio Maquina.
Recommendations:
Restaurant La Casita in Dos de Abril,
Hotel Posada San Jose, Montepio,
any boat rental with life preservers and a canopy,
the horse named "Chucho".
Links:
Montepio - gallery & slideshow
video - Montepio - off season panorama
video - Montepio - high season panorama
tuxtlas.com - Kayaking Rio Maquina
tuxtlas.com - Beach towns of San Andrés Tuxtla
Montepio - gallery & slideshow
video - Montepio - off season panorama
video - Montepio - high season panorama
tuxtlas.com - Kayaking Rio Maquina
tuxtlas.com - Beach towns of San Andrés Tuxtla
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